The 18th Parallel and Mr Bean

Almost the number of multiple trails collectively called the Ho Chi Minh Trail, this parallel being a natural boundary used in colonial days to distinguish between North and South Viet Nam. The next leg was to return across it.

Dong Ha, a big city, as nothing much going for it in itself other than Mr Binh (Bean). With good English, he's a tour guide and was hustling me gently. Met him several times including at the tunnels with a Canadian 'victim'. It was Mr Binh who advised me not to take the old trail road from Khe Sanh back north, difficult and dangerous he said. It was with reluctance I followed his advice after those mechanical problems. He appeared to say bye at the gas station.

Where ever you go and what ever you do, the war pops up. The father of Mr Vu(Rain), owner of the internet cafe I used, worked with the CIA. Mr Vu, a graphic designer, had to go to Korea before finally returning.

So up to Dong Hoi, a real easy but boring ride on Highway No1, a rapidly expanding river come seaside fishing resort town. Lots of boats with bamboo woven coracle tenders made watertight by a thick coating of tar on each side, powered by a single paddle. Baked sea fish and a couple of local Huda beers by the breezey river mouth made for an easy day and a good night's sleep.

Off to Phong Nga, the vast caves used by the North Vietnamese in the war as a hospital and a logistics base to send supplies down the Trail. The caves are now a UNESCO World Heritage site presumably for their natural beauty as apposed to the representation of determination shown by the north Vietnamese . Arriving too late for the full tour I found a nicely hosted guest house in Son Trach who kindly gave me, and you, this gratis internet use and blog.