Unplanned side trips

Onwards and eastwards to Xam Nua my next destination. With no clear sign to Xam Nua at Muang Kham I took what seemed to be the main road but ended up at the Vietnam border at Nam Kan. Retreading the peaceful 80kms to Muang Kham, the Xam Nua road was signed from that side. On to Nam Neun to overnight with three Chinese touring on small step-through bikes. Next day finally made Xam Nua. Checked in and up to the so slow internet where old pal Canadian Jason was battling with his patience. A surprise encounter, we enthologised part way through a bottle of Johnny Black. Jo from Cope was in town too on a field visit. Xam Nua is in the middle of the Pathet Lao war zone so many UXOs and limbs to be replaced.

Time was pressing for Hanoi deadline so headed along highway 6A to Pahang, a bone rattling, bike shakin' unpaved 80kms, very beautiful, no tourists. Having asked in Vientiane and along the way about this border crossing I was told it was possible. On arrival I was told for Lao and Vietnam people. With only about 35 kms to Moc Chau and a paved road I was obliged to rattle back down the 80 kms bumping into Jo from Cope again, forks leaking and carb looking wet, to Vieng Xai, a Pathet Lao stronghold in the karst terrain. This is a beautiful lakeside town where I took a stilted guest house overhanging the water. So cold at that altitude, no shower that night.

Next day, 15th March, and down the official crossing at Na Meo where an impressive imperial customs edifice is in stark contrast to the endless trail of bamboo and wooden structures seen along these parts. After several checks of paperwork, bags and bike, a sniffer dog paying much attention but no bonus for him that day. Finally into Viet Nam. Bamboo is big business in that neck of the woods with poles and house siding being woven in roadside villages all the way down to the valley floor. Unexpectedly finding myself on a major highway, it looked like Hanoi was in sight. But once off the highway it was a battle of endless trucks and buses with echoing horns, pushy CRVs and a multitude of motorbikes jostling for position. After many pitstops as nearing dark, eventually found a very kind family run guest house in Ha Dong, 20 kms out of Hanoi. Hot water, big bed, internet down the road.