Almost the number of multiple trails collectively called the Ho Chi Minh Trail, this parallel being a natural boundary used in colonial days to distinguish between North and South Viet Nam. The next leg was to return across it.
Dong Ha, a big city, as nothing much going for it in itself other than Mr Binh (Bean). With good English, he's a tour guide and was hustling me gently. Met him several times including at the tunnels with a Canadian 'victim'. It was Mr Binh who advised me not to take the old trail road from Khe Sanh back north, difficult and dangerous he said. It was with reluctance I followed his advice after those mechanical problems. He appeared to say bye at the gas station.
Where ever you go and what ever you do, the war pops up. The father of Mr Vu(Rain), owner of the internet cafe I used, worked with the CIA. Mr Vu, a graphic designer, had to go to Korea before finally returning.
So up to Dong Hoi, a real easy but boring ride on Highway No1, a rapidly expanding river come seaside fishing resort town. Lots of boats with bamboo woven coracle tenders made watertight by a thick coating of tar on each side, powered by a single paddle. Baked sea fish and a couple of local Huda beers by the breezey river mouth made for an easy day and a good night's sleep.
Off to Phong Nga, the vast caves used by the North Vietnamese in the war as a hospital and a logistics base to send supplies down the Trail. The caves are now a UNESCO World Heritage site presumably for their natural beauty as apposed to the representation of determination shown by the north Vietnamese . Arriving too late for the full tour I found a nicely hosted guest house in Son Trach who kindly gave me, and you, this gratis internet use and blog.
Cluster Bombs in Casing
76 milion of these individual Bombies remain unexploded in Laos. This is a mother pod that failed to spring open and cast it's deadly cargo.
Project Pineapple Logo
Inside the shape of a BLU26 Cluster Bomb is the result it can cause.
One Reason for the Name Project Pineapple
America versus China
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Another Good Reason for Name Project Pineapple
This cluster bomb, known as a pineapple, which is still active, is in the collection of Tourist Information at Phonsavan, Plain of Jars, Laos
Two Good Reasons for Image on Project Pineapple Logo
Cope publicity staff Soksai 'plays' Project Pineapple logo
Mr Ta, No Arms One Eye, Cluster Bomb Victim
This is what the ride is about, to stop the perpetrators of these weapons
An Animated Mr Ta Gesticulates....
....as best he can during interview with COPE's Cluster Bomb display behind
'Handling' His Misfortune by Selling Maps at War Museum, Sai Gon
This victim armless, one legged, one eye, is pragmantic, I shook his 'hand' with both of mine
Arms and Legs All Over The Place
That's COPEs limb fitting centre, not going out of business soon, unfortunately.
Colourful Collection of Cluster Bombs
A tasty collection, you can see why kids enjoy playing with them
Togehter We Can Make It Happen
Bomb Awareness Day in Vientiane, is that an American flag I see before mine eyes?
Out of Nong Across to Along and The Hardest Trail
The Along villagers build this crossing during the dry season with a hefty toll on the otherside
War Vet Wonders Where The Good Times Went, And His Leg
The restrained display opposite the City Opera House on Le Loi Avenue, Sai Gon
International Artist Supports Project Pineapple
Man Winkler's contribution to the project , see blog entry, April 22
Little Remains After 40 Years of Scrap Hunters
Too big with rusted bolts for the recycling confirms you are on the Trail
Forest Fire
Sunset on Lao at the Viet Nam border. Imagine these skies on real fire 40 years ago.
Descendant of First Generation Clearance Team
Pigs, Dogs and Children were the first to clear UXOs before western conscience finally activated, see website
Jettisoned Fuel Tank Takes to the Air Again
B52s dropped their supplimentary fuel tanks after their deadly Cluster Bomb missions
UXO Lao Xekong meet Project Pineapple
Mr Tawee and some of his crew receiving COPE's brouchures
Mountain Villagers Have Little But The Land They Live On
Why should these people be suffering from the war remants so flagrantly scattered 40 years ago?
Complex Weaving Designs Take a Complex Comprehension
Villagers skilled in weaving intricate designs easily capable of searching their mountainous forest floor plan
Unstoppable Road Development of the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Parking a Minsk even for a moment can be hazardous
Minsk 125cc 2002
Your going on that? remarked Tony, the web man.
What's that Minsk doing up there?
It's on the way to my 'local' mechanic in Luang Prabang of course.
My 'Local' Mechanic
Hey Joe, Second Gear, not Top Gear
A Jarring Ride
Phonsavan, Pathet Lao stronghold
Hanoi, Minsk's Second Fix
Snagging repairs after first fix
The Ride Kickstarts
Project Pineapple departs from Bach Mai Hospital, Hanoi
The Big House Pitstop
Not reaching the start of the Ho Chi Minh Trail on the first day we make a pitstop at this fine traditional Big House.
Cam Thuy, Start of the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Outside the restaurant, our last meal together before they head north and I south
Project Pineapple Riders
Ben from Australia, with 32 biking trophies to his name, rides the Minsk in Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh's Birth Place
Not far off the Trail to which he gave it's name, Uncle Ho's house
Phong Nga Cave's now Toothless Mouth
Like Venice, Cave Gondaleers have time
Spooked at Trail Crossroads
Tien with Jokers Alain and Ludivec
Moody Mountains of Mordor
The Spooky crossroads of the Trail
Friendly French
Missing a gear change causes a photo op returning to the caves
Chain of Events cause Delays
Tuan speedily replaces clutch and drive chain
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