Onwards and eastwards to Xam Nua my next destination. With no clear sign to Xam Nua at Muang Kham I took what seemed to be the main road but ended up at the Vietnam border at Nam Kan. Retreading the peaceful 80kms to Muang Kham, the Xam Nua road was signed from that side. On to Nam Neun to overnight with three Chinese touring on small step-through bikes. Next day finally made Xam Nua. Checked in and up to the so slow internet where old pal Canadian Jason was battling with his patience. A surprise encounter, we enthologised part way through a bottle of Johnny Black. Jo from Cope was in town too on a field visit. Xam Nua is in the middle of the Pathet Lao war zone so many UXOs and limbs to be replaced.
Time was pressing for Hanoi deadline so headed along highway 6A to Pahang, a bone rattling, bike shakin' unpaved 80kms, very beautiful, no tourists. Having asked in Vientiane and along the way about this border crossing I was told it was possible. On arrival I was told for Lao and Vietnam people. With only about 35 kms to Moc Chau and a paved road I was obliged to rattle back down the 80 kms bumping into Jo from Cope again, forks leaking and carb looking wet, to Vieng Xai, a Pathet Lao stronghold in the karst terrain. This is a beautiful lakeside town where I took a stilted guest house overhanging the water. So cold at that altitude, no shower that night.
Next day, 15th March, and down the official crossing at Na Meo where an impressive imperial customs edifice is in stark contrast to the endless trail of bamboo and wooden structures seen along these parts. After several checks of paperwork, bags and bike, a sniffer dog paying much attention but no bonus for him that day. Finally into Viet Nam. Bamboo is big business in that neck of the woods with poles and house siding being woven in roadside villages all the way down to the valley floor. Unexpectedly finding myself on a major highway, it looked like Hanoi was in sight. But once off the highway it was a battle of endless trucks and buses with echoing horns, pushy CRVs and a multitude of motorbikes jostling for position. After many pitstops as nearing dark, eventually found a very kind family run guest house in Ha Dong, 20 kms out of Hanoi. Hot water, big bed, internet down the road.
Cluster Bombs in Casing
76 milion of these individual Bombies remain unexploded in Laos. This is a mother pod that failed to spring open and cast it's deadly cargo.
Project Pineapple Logo
Inside the shape of a BLU26 Cluster Bomb is the result it can cause.
One Reason for the Name Project Pineapple
America versus China
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Another Good Reason for Name Project Pineapple
This cluster bomb, known as a pineapple, which is still active, is in the collection of Tourist Information at Phonsavan, Plain of Jars, Laos
Two Good Reasons for Image on Project Pineapple Logo
Cope publicity staff Soksai 'plays' Project Pineapple logo
Mr Ta, No Arms One Eye, Cluster Bomb Victim
This is what the ride is about, to stop the perpetrators of these weapons
An Animated Mr Ta Gesticulates....
....as best he can during interview with COPE's Cluster Bomb display behind
'Handling' His Misfortune by Selling Maps at War Museum, Sai Gon
This victim armless, one legged, one eye, is pragmantic, I shook his 'hand' with both of mine
Arms and Legs All Over The Place
That's COPEs limb fitting centre, not going out of business soon, unfortunately.
Colourful Collection of Cluster Bombs
A tasty collection, you can see why kids enjoy playing with them
Togehter We Can Make It Happen
Bomb Awareness Day in Vientiane, is that an American flag I see before mine eyes?
Out of Nong Across to Along and The Hardest Trail
The Along villagers build this crossing during the dry season with a hefty toll on the otherside
War Vet Wonders Where The Good Times Went, And His Leg
The restrained display opposite the City Opera House on Le Loi Avenue, Sai Gon
International Artist Supports Project Pineapple
Man Winkler's contribution to the project , see blog entry, April 22
Little Remains After 40 Years of Scrap Hunters
Too big with rusted bolts for the recycling confirms you are on the Trail
Forest Fire
Sunset on Lao at the Viet Nam border. Imagine these skies on real fire 40 years ago.
Descendant of First Generation Clearance Team
Pigs, Dogs and Children were the first to clear UXOs before western conscience finally activated, see website
Jettisoned Fuel Tank Takes to the Air Again
B52s dropped their supplimentary fuel tanks after their deadly Cluster Bomb missions
UXO Lao Xekong meet Project Pineapple
Mr Tawee and some of his crew receiving COPE's brouchures
Mountain Villagers Have Little But The Land They Live On
Why should these people be suffering from the war remants so flagrantly scattered 40 years ago?
Complex Weaving Designs Take a Complex Comprehension
Villagers skilled in weaving intricate designs easily capable of searching their mountainous forest floor plan
Unstoppable Road Development of the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Parking a Minsk even for a moment can be hazardous
Minsk 125cc 2002
Your going on that? remarked Tony, the web man.
What's that Minsk doing up there?
It's on the way to my 'local' mechanic in Luang Prabang of course.
My 'Local' Mechanic
Hey Joe, Second Gear, not Top Gear
A Jarring Ride
Phonsavan, Pathet Lao stronghold
Hanoi, Minsk's Second Fix
Snagging repairs after first fix
The Ride Kickstarts
Project Pineapple departs from Bach Mai Hospital, Hanoi
The Big House Pitstop
Not reaching the start of the Ho Chi Minh Trail on the first day we make a pitstop at this fine traditional Big House.
Cam Thuy, Start of the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Outside the restaurant, our last meal together before they head north and I south
Project Pineapple Riders
Ben from Australia, with 32 biking trophies to his name, rides the Minsk in Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh's Birth Place
Not far off the Trail to which he gave it's name, Uncle Ho's house
Phong Nga Cave's now Toothless Mouth
Like Venice, Cave Gondaleers have time
Spooked at Trail Crossroads
Tien with Jokers Alain and Ludivec
Moody Mountains of Mordor
The Spooky crossroads of the Trail
Friendly French
Missing a gear change causes a photo op returning to the caves
Chain of Events cause Delays
Tuan speedily replaces clutch and drive chain
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